I’m gonna tell you a story about a little place we like to call Hemmie’s, also known as Meat Grinders, San Dimas, Punta San Diego and Gran Pacifica. Surfer Magazine listed it as one of the top 100 waves in the world and they were right to do so. It’s ranked among other waves world wide like Nias, Pipe, Teahupoo, Cloudbreak etc…
Picture this… the waitress brings you an ice cold Tona while you sit in a swimming pool perched on the edge of a bluff. As you stretch your sore body you are looking out over a rocky point jutting into a tourmaline colored ocean. At the tip of that rocky point three noodle armed stragglers are fighting the dropping tide and are trading off on hollow sub-sea level lefts that bowl up over the reef and spit repeatedly as they spool off down the line. It’s tempting to go back out, but the soreness in your shoulders, the dropping tide and the tempting frigidity of the beer anchor you to your seat in the swimming pool. Maybe a little fresh ceviche would go well with the view.
What I’m saying by all this is WE SCORED! After a week of waist and shoulder high waves that were very fun but not very challenging, we were finally blessed with a little southern hemmie juice that vaulted overhead tubes for those daring enough to try. The waves were challenging to say the least. The drop is not impossible, but it’s definitely a ledge and the only way you’re getting in is to commit and throw yourself over that ledge. For us goofyfooters you have to feather your toe edge into the face of the wave, sideslipping is the norm, and once locked in you can’t stop pumping as the wave is too fast for just trimming. Regularfooters have it easy… just pig dog it, drag an arm and that’s all it takes to get the barrel of your life, or two on one wave…or three on occasion. The reef is reasonable…it’s not razor sharp lava or completely covered in urchins, think of it more like rocks covered with 60 grit sand paper…there are a few urchins though, I have a few spines in my foot as pleasant reminders of a beating I took out there…but a little vinegar dissolves them and they fade away…luckily the urchin spines fade away much quicker than the memories of getting some of the best shacks of my life.
The forecast is for the waves to get bigger and to keep on coming for two more weeks. Storm systems are lining up south of New Zealand each of them in cue to send us pulses. The bigger boards are coming off the rack, getting waxed, and fins put in. All we have to do know is pick where we want to go based on tides and wind (which is incessantly offshore). Not sure where it’s going to be this morning, but I know it’s gonna’ be good…and we can always hit the high tide this afternoon back at Hemmie’s. What to do? What to do?