The 4th morning in a row getting up and out in the water before sunrise. The swell dropped some but head to overhead sets where still rolling in. All of the crew got plenty of waves and surfed until their arms turned to noodles. Got back to the house around 8:30 and enjoyed some eggs, bacon, and fruit salad. After a little rest some of the crew headed down the beached and scored head high rights and lefts before the wind turned onshore. The rest of the afternoon was spent talking story and hanging out around the house. We are looking forward to another great day of surf tomorrow.
From the mind of Greg:
I’m salty and so is my world. I wash it off and reapply daily. I am swollen, pickled, wrinkled…living jerky. My world is rusting around me and so is my body. It’s just surface rust though, nothing structural…underneath the oxidation I gleam like stainless. I breath in the salt and I’m immune to it’s smell unless it isn’t there…it smells like home or fresh laundry…to me. I soak in salt…I breath it, it’s in my lungs, in my blood, in my mouth, it is my world. Every day I see mountains of salt in the salinas across the road. The salt ponds glisten white in the otherwise sand colored world. The Ocean out front oozes salt with a never ending supply…it’s cool blue colors don’t bely the white salt contained within. My skin is dry and crusted…sanded smooth by gritty salt. My eyelashes are frosted as is the fuzz on my neck and ears…I brush it off but there is always more weeping out of me. Sometimes I drink saltwater though not on purpose. During my thrashings I take swallows and gulps in the absence of air…I’ve got salt water in me, it makes me sick to my stomach and I love it. Drinking saltwater is supposed to make you crazy. I think it’s working. There is no 12 step program for this problem. I lead them to salt…the guests. I drench them in it and they love it. They are crazy too. When you eat dinner do you wonder where the salt on your table came from? It might have been from me. My world is salt and maybe you’re seasoning your salad with it right now. I’m salty and it tastes good… so sweet.