There she is, that first photo. The one of a chai latte colored wide open and empty barrel. It was like that dream where you glimpse a stunning beauty through a heavy crowd, but every time you move through the mass to catch another glimpse of her she eludes your gaze, making you wonder if she was really there in the first place…yeah…that’s the way these barrels were. We got a few…not “that one beauty” obviously, but it was still very worth it. When we got back home to the beach some of the surfers from the other (second rate) camps asked how the waves were…”all right” we answered, “but not really worth it”. That was a lie…we would have weathered much worse just for another flirting glimpse of that beauty, much less the chance to get inside her!
NOTE: The random barrel photo is from (get ready) Transito! Some of you know that Transito is our old standby…never really good, but always offering up something. We found ourselves down there again and just when we thought about quitting surfing, Transito produces a little green nug that’s more than enough to get you high on surfing again.