I’d like to thank all the gods and variables and things that could have gone wrong but didn’t, for rallying together and getting on the same page and arranging for today to be one of the better sessions all year. You know I’m spoiled and when the waves are good I think they’re Meh (if that’s a word). When the waves are excellent, I think they’re good. When the waves are epic…well, when it’s epic it’s epic. I’m not trying to say that today was epic, but it was pretty close. Really it was probably epic for some, but for me it was good…real good.
We surfed out front for a bit while the tide dropped and then waited about an hour after the low to get the boat out to Freighties…it was pretty good when we got there and definitely better farther to the inside. It seems that when the tide is lower the larger waves crumble on the outer parts of the sand bar…it’s just a little too shallow out there and not the right shape. Then as the tide filled in the larger waves rolled over that shallow spot and farther in, throwing on the sand bar in true Freight Train’s fashion. The crowd was light and friendly…I only yelled at one group of guys and two individuals;-) (and there were some pretty girls too). The winds were light offshore and even occasional nil. The size was a little overhead and very ripable. There were quite a few barrels especially on the inside section. Only complaint is that the boat couldn’t safely sit farther inside to get photos and video of the best section of the wave. Needless to say Evan and I and a couple others capitalized on the misunderstood or otherwise leftovers…it was a goldmine!
The sand bar is in good form right now. We got some west swell from Hurricane Maria and that pushed the sand farther inside. Now with Norbert threatening to do the same it seems as though there’s a good ‘foundation’ for the new sand to fill in on top of. We’ve had some rain which helps the sand flow, but not enough in the past few days. Luckily the Estuary machine pretty much insures a constant flow of sand and sediment…but the addition of rain just turbo charges things.
We have had onshore winds kicking in for the afternoons… they’re really light and it’s still surf-able, but again, when you’re spoiled and used to offshore winds all the time…well…any onshore sucks! it’s ok though…we were surfed out in two hours this morning still wound up surfing for almost 4!
I hope you guys like the photos…hopefully you made it this far…I usually don’t write this much;-)