Thank you Pam! Apparently the typhoon that wrecked shop in the South Pacific has generated a nice pulse of swell headed straight for us. This is a very rare occurrence to have a west swell. The beauty of it is there is a residual south swell that it’s mixing up with giving us over 40 degrees of cross up angle. Now I’ve seen Salinas Grande with a cross up swell and some of you have probably heard the story. We had two swells meet a couple of years ago, one 2 feet 15 seconds from 190 and the other 2 feet at 15 seconds from 225…that 35 degrees of cross up made Salinas Grande look like a beach break straight from a Wilbur Kookmeyer cartoon. Conditions this weekend look similar and possibly even better. More cross up angle, but one swell is larger than the other, so we’ll see….I expect to see Wilbur out there surfing with us.
That swell a couple of years ago was so good I almost couldn’t believe it. I caught a couple of drainers back to back and after the second I decided to just watch from the beach to see if it was really as good as it seemed. A set came in and within my field of vision were four peaks. Each folded over into a perfect “A” frame breaking hollow left and right…that’s 8 barrels, just within my view, not to mention the hundreds of other breaking up and down the length of Salinas Grande. All 8 of these barrels spit in unison and I didn’t waste any time…I paddled back out and it was still the best day I’ve ever had at Salinas to this day. I’m hoping that changes this weekend.