Man this is weird…we have waves….really! It was a pretty consistent ‘offseason’ …waist high occasionally shouder high, but never flat…at least according to East coasters;-) We were soooo happy to see a legit’ swell on the forecast and it arrived on time and pretty much handed our asses to us. We forgot to get in shape for the season. The swell turned out to be about 10-12 feet and, like most long period swells here, it was slabbing pretty hard on the reef at Punta Miramar. Combine that with very strong off shores and it was putting us all to the test. It was fun to watch though. A lot of guests (chose not to paddle out) paddled out only to find it was better to watch from the channel as the main peak was pretty hollow and heavy. I actually had one of the worst wipeouts I’ve had in 3 years living here…a 15 second hold down, came up just in time for the next waves to break inches from my head. I came up laughing…only because I didn’t get hurt. I’ll be honest though…I was scared for a second….right about the time I opened my eyes, the spray cleared and I realized I was going over the falls like it or not.