Kayla selected some randomness for me this time…not really a theme here to run with other than the complete randomness of the photos she selected!
The T-Shirt: If you’ve been here you probably understand this…there is always talk of “the plan”. Usually it’s around the dinner table so I can get the following day’s surf plan into everybody’s head at the same time. Then later, right about the time I’m going to disappear for bed, someone asks the question: “so what’s the plan?”. My first two years running the camp I would politely review the plan again. Now I pre-empt the plan meeting with a clear announcement that those not paying attention will not know what the plan is until we are underway the next day following the plan that ignored, didn’t remember or just didn’t listen to…pay attention at the plan meeting…
Nasty Rashy Thing: That is the back of Kayla’s leg after she underestimated the jellyfish. She had that rash for days!
Food, Food, Smoothies, Puppies, one lone coconut…? I think Kayla was getting artsy with the camera;-) That sandwich though is one of her famous BLT’s. She made fresh homed rosemary bread first. Then we put on sundered tomato hummus, chipotle cheddar, BLT, and some red onion to top it off…to say it was good is a gross understatement. This is our Sunday tradition now…BLT’s for lunch and then I either do ribs or a shrimp boil (thank you Matt Khouri).
The Brazilian surfing community does not follow the rules of the road as most of us know them. Dropping in on your buddy is just known as sharing. Burning your buddy is just a way to show your friend that you’re a better surfer…wether you are or you aren’t. The truth is we don’t know who had the right of way in this photo because we don’t know who’s been waiting longer for the wave. The days of the rule being whoever is standing first or closest to the curl are kind of gone in favor of waiting your turn and letting other people catch the wave if they’ve been waiting longer….except in Brazil…none of those rules applies. It was shorty after this photo was taken that I paddled out to the lineup to start setting things straight. Luckily the word Kook is understood in any language!