Saturday, June 6, 2015
I’m telling you right now……it was sooooooo big and soooooo hollow…….
….yeah yeah, we’ve all heard it, but at least this time it was true. We got some west swell from good old hurricane Blanca and it wasn’t white lies this time. The west swell was substantial enough to combo with our arriving south swell and it was a gourmet recipe for Salinas Grande, the beach breaks north of the camp. We had early forerunners from the south west at 3 feet at 18 seconds from 217 degrees combining with 3 feet at 15 seconds from 272 degrees. That 52 degrees of crossup was the most cross up I’ve seen on a forecast down here. Either of those swells individually would be good for 8-10 foot faces. We had foregone a morning session at Salinas as we had high tides in the morning and that’s not the best call for Salinas…another camp went up and I got the inside info that it was good…really good, but they had to leave because some of their guests weren’t ok with almost double overhead waves, even if it was perfect beach break. After the morning tide peaked and we picked off a long session at Pipes, we headed for Salinas on the bottom side of the dropping tide. Now low tide to dead low isn’t a great recipe for Salinas either, but we had to take a chance and we’re glad we did. The low tide was moderate and the swell was pushing so much water onto the beach it was like a medium tide…except for a waist deep sandbar! Luckily my group of guys from Argentina weren’t short on courage, neither was Pete a guest who just arrived that morning from San Diego. I was probably the only one nervous as I could see 6 foot backs as we motored up the coast. I don’t think the other guys even had a sense of what we were about to get into. To say it was good would be an understatement. It was the best (or at least tied for the best) Salinas Grande I’ve surfed in the almost 4 years I’ve been here. The combo swell was amplifying the size and created perfect A frame peaks, about one peak every 150 yards….for miles! All I needed was one peak and I proceeded to pick of one draining right barrel after another. I was having a hard time not grabbing rail and pig-dogging the waves, in fact there was only one that I let go of the rail and looked up to see if I was actually barreled. I was, it was just such a big barrel it didn’t feel like it (plus I should have been deeper right?!) Anyway, the rights were easier to make than the lefts, the lefts would close out at some point while the rights were spitting us out with such regularity it was like an eye and face stinging dream. We all got barrels, it was the only way to ride a wave there…there wasn’t much room to turn on these drainers. Markel buckled his board….second buckled board for him in three days. We all got caught inside at some point, often spending close to 20 minutes finding a rip that would let us pop back outside. The drops were pretty steep, but after surfing the slab at Punta Miramar it seemed pretty easy. We practically had to drag the group out of the water. The Argentinians were scheduled to leave for Rancho Santana and we were late for their drop off. I’m guessing that now they’re down south, with the crowds and the huge new swell that arrived, they’re probably wishing they were back here surfing empty hollowness. The huge swell is backing down as we speak, it was unsurfable everywhere except Punta Miramar, but so has the hurricane swell from the west….so it’s back to low tide outer miramar and the soon coming mid tide at pipes…should be a great day! Now you tell me….am I lying?