We had such a fine day here it was just a pleasure to wake up to some sunshine. We’ve got a lot of tropical layers drifting this way and that, but today we were spared and got mostly sunshine. I took a peak out the window early and the glimpse of a sunny blue ocean with light offshore winds was enough to lure me to the coffee machine and then eventually the rancho to go check the waves up close.
Out front a couple of guys were getting some good ones although it was clearly a little wonky from the storms blowing around. There’s some clean groundswell, but it was criss crossed with some other random bumps that made it necessary to pick just the right wave (but when isn’t it like that?)
There were even some right around…just the odd one here or there, don’t get all excited, we’re still the land of lefts. In fact after shooting photos I headed down to pipes and found myself alone. This was my first time back in the water since the “Fish Incident” that left my face with a couple new holes. I got worked on the paddled out by double ups hitting a shallow sand bar and then the current picked me up and sucked me into the bowl where I dodged a couple before getting my game back on. It was pretty dreamy with some thick drainers and I was all alone…it didn’t suck! I did have to dodge an occasional set that was pushing, now I’m not trying to exaggerate, 10 foot + faces? It was an anomoly…just an occasional monster that was usually breaking so far outside I wasn’t able to catch it, just dodge it and be happy I did, because they were pretty heavy.
Unfortunately the odd North/North East wind turned onshore and the dropping tide had us looking to have another cup of coffee and some breakfast. The winds got steadily stronger to the point where we did some beach cleanup and some last minute chores before guests arrive again tonight. Which of course means we just have to do some more of the same!