I spared the next frame which, if you’ve surfed inside miramar much, you can probably guess pinched on him. It’s takes really good wave selection to get the ones that open up long enough to let you out. I don’t think this guy could have picked much better, or done much else with the wave…sometimes you just get pinched.
The waves were at that ‘in-between’ size…too big for the inside reef to be really good and too small for the outer reef to be working right. Every once in a while a wave would sneak through and hit all the variable right, kind of like the one in the photo, but a lot of them were either too fast or mushy… it did spread the lineup out and there wasn’t much competition for waves…just a few guys having fun and getting pinched on the best barrels.