If it had been any where else in the world there would have been hundreds of people out. In Southern California it would have looked like a janitor farm- dozens of SUPS sweeping the lineups. Brazil, forget it, just you and 5 of your best friends on every wave. The East Coast, probably the same thing, just more blond hair.
For us it was just the four of us. Marvin was on camera duty…sorry he’s kind of new and he’s working out the best way to get the shots…but he did get a couple! It was good enough that I didn’t want to be on camera duty. Expect the quality to get a little better moving forward. Of course if we’d had more surfing subjects in the water it would have been easy to get more shots.
After a few hours the tide filled in and it was getting even better…the problem is after a 3.5 hour session yesterday morning and another couple of hours at Pipes, then another 3 hour session this morning, well, we were getting burnt out! It’s a terrible thing to turn your back on good waves.
The good news is the forecast looks like more of the same for tomorrow. The water is blue, the sun is shining, the wind is offshore, there are no crowds and the only thing to complain about is we don’t have enough energy to catch all the waves! Positive problems kids, positive problems…