We got home from Salinas Grande only to find the waves pumping right out front. It was good enough to get me out there after the three hour session we had just had?! I caught a couple and then came in to grab the camera and get some shots. I was trying to get someone doing something amazing, but the door kept ringing and by the time I got up on the rancho the tide had started dropping and the best surfers had exited the water. I did get a quick clip so you can see a couple of waves that went unridden….it was pretty good…in fact it was really good when the tide was higher.
Now about Salinas Grande. I had bee noticing over the last days that the higher tide was a bit better for Salinas Grande. I’m guessing because of the significant swell size the energy was enough to over power any mushy-ness from more water on the sand bars. Now the other day I had the whole blog post about how good Salinas was on Thursday. Well today was even better! Once again it was three of us in the water….there were a few guys way up the beach. We had the option to go fishing, but we thought “hey we’re here, lets get in and check it out.” Well fuck fishing! We scored Salinas even better than the other day?! It was insane…lefts, rights, barrels, green rooms, hacks, floaters, even some airs attempted…we channeled Jordy Smith…it was frigging amazing! I don’t know how to describe how lucky we are, but we know things could always be worse. Instead of crossup swell from a hurricane, you could be caught in the hurricane.
More news tomorrow!