You know how it is when your friends and by ‘friends’ I mean your ‘Bro’s’ ask about the waves. You know how good it was, but you don’t want to be that guy bragging about it, so you soft play it. You tell the truth, but you dole it out slowly. You make them eek the truth out of you one nugget at a time- after all you don’t want their head to explode the way yours has been since scoring such an incredible session. You do however eventually tell them the truth.
The Truth- Was it good? Yeah, it was good. Was it really good? Yeah, it was really good….really really good. Was it epic? Pretty much, you tell me; imagine surfing in 84 degree water, it’s sunny out and there’s about 3-5mph of offshore wind. You’re at a beach break with a total of 6 people trading off A frames spitting and reforming and spitting again. The beach break is over 10 miles long and the current swell conditions are a 2 foot at 14 second pulse from 254 degrees and a 2 foot at 14 second pulse from 200 degrees….the coast line faces just about 225 degrees. Did you ever see a Wilbur Kookmeyer cartoon? Yeah it was epic. Did you get any good waves? Man shut the F**k up, what can I say? I got such good waves I can’t even talk about it, you want the truth? You can’t handle the truth! So it was good eh? Yeah bro, it was good.
Now if anybody else asks you how the waves were you have a different answer. This is when you get back from surfing and the guys at the point, aquaintances, see you jump off the boat…here come the lies.
The Lie- How were the waves? Eh…ok, the tide was a little fat. Was it offshore? It was kind of sideshore and putting some bump on the face. So was it worth it? Eh, I don’t know, I kind of wish we’d stayed here, it looks like you guys scored…take care man!
You beat a hasty retreat in hopes that your deception goes undetected. You hope they don’t see the smirk, or the twitching glances trying to make the story sound believable. You pray they take it verbatim and don’t test your reporting, so when you see them the next morning at ‘said spot’ you don’t have to keep up the deception…”hey man, it’s so good today!” , while hoping your buddy doesn’t chime in and say something like “you should have been here yesterday!” … you know how it goes.
Here’s the truth though, because you’re all my bro’s. I’m gonna come clean to you all….
Today was SOFA KING EPIC !!!!!!!!! And you should have been here!