Man the waves are good! 208 degrees, 4 feet @ 14 seconds, look for it when you’re coming down! It’s still a bit of a challenge to find the right one, but when you do it’s a blast. We did mostly video today and that’s probably a good thing as I’m going to have some time to do some video editing.
When I say WTF is stands for “what fucking fish just hit me in the face?!” …..so I’m sitting there, minding my own business, pondering going in and resting for a lower tide and POW! I’ve seen Bonito jumping and feeding all the years I’ve been here. I’ve been startled by Needle fish more than once. For all these close calls I certainly wasn’t that surprised when a 5-7 pound Bonito went face to face with me…and I apparently lost! 21 stitches later I’m back at home, hopped up on pain killers and wishing I’d gone in sooner. I can’t imagine the chances of getting hit in the face by a fish jumping, but as my friend used to say, “it’s pretty easy to get hit by lighting when you’re hang-gliding in a lighting storm.”
Did I mention the waves are going off? I’m on the bench for at least 5 days and possibly more. Expect some good shots in the next days as I’ve got camera duty.
The guests are almost surfed out. The swell is pushing double overhead and draining barrels across the reef. Did I mention I’m hopped up on pain killers…that’s to kill the pain of watching this all happen while I sit on the bench.
….I might cry.
…and we had two broken boards, a broken leash, oh…and a broken nose! Did I mention I’m all hopped up on painkillers?