You know when you get one of those waves and you’re just a second behind it…maybe even only 1 foot out of position, but you go anyway. It usually results in a late drop, especially when you’re fat like me. Instead of hooking the rail into the face and ducking under the lip you drop straight in and bottom turn, but it’s too late, the barrel has moved on…you’re no longer invited to the party, kicked out, left behind. Well that’s when the two fingered salute comes in. That fucking wave was a good one and I blew it, but you know what, there were others as you’ll see from the slides.
It was as “SuperFun” session. It was a tight group of locals, in fact the only locals we have. Then myself and Matt Khouri. Khouri was the only person in the lineup that doesn’t speak Spanish so we talked a lot of shit about him…but we would have done that in English too! I was stoked…the local kids, Nardo, Cruz, Engel, and Pepe would all compete for waves, so any little piece of shit wave that came along they would fight for. I told them “tu come la caca y come el carne”….this translates to “you eat the shit and I eat the meat”. They thought that was quite funny. I found it quite rewarding as they would all fight for the first wave of the set and leave me out the back to pick off the one I wanted.
They did get some good ones though and I was stoked to see them throwing some style. You’ll see in the third frame Nardo is rotating his upper body and eyeballing the lip in anticipation of doing his top turn. In the last frame, you can’t see Cruz pig-dogging this barrel, but was on the shoulder and he was ass dragging and digging his arm in to stall. In the fifth frame is Engel who barely ducked under this lip then stomped the tail and dug in his back arm to get into the shade of this barrel. After hooting them on I told them no more surfboards. They’re all getting too good! Pretty soon I’ll be giving them the two finger salute;-)