I always say I’d rather pay my dues in small installments. The fish to the face a while ago was a balloon payment and today’s dues were a little more in line with what we prefer. Now if I only had myself to blame for my injuries (MJ!).
The waves were going off this morning and all the variables came together to make for a super fun session. Even with a small hole in my arm, courtesy of MJ’s fin, it was worth the pain to keep surfing. Luckily we don’t have too many sharks around here as the cut wouldn’t stop bleeding…some say because of too much rum in my blood?! Sean got a fin cut in his ankle, but he wouldn’t look at it. He was afraid if it was bad enough he’s feel like he had to go in and if he ignored it he could keep surfing…the waves were that good!
The first frame is Sean walking down to Pipes for a second session…yes it’s empty and going off.
The most notable frame though is number 5…that’s MJ getting lip launched after catching a rail and getting sucked up the face on what would have been her first made barrel. At least the first barrel I would have seen her make…but alas…she went into orbit and we were all so happy to see it…while we were still bleeding… we expect MJ to come out of orbit later today. In the mean time enjoy the photos and “does anybody have a bandaid?”