When we took off in the morning to go surf up North it was more on an exploratory note. This new swell had filled in and long lines were pounding the outside reefs and then rolling through a little mixed up before hitting the inside reefs. The forecasts had called for a cross up swell that we didn’t see, but “on paper” we thought Salinas Grande might be the call. Upon seeing the long lines it was evident Salinas Grande would have been just shy of a death wish. With the boat on order we loaded up and thought, “well lets just check out Freight Trains”.
Now to say Freight Trains is breaking would almost be a misnomer. There were waves….really (really) good waves. Hollow barreling fast kegging bombs! The take off spot was where the wave used to end…on the little reef at Jellyfish Joe’s (our personal name for that little reef on the inside). It used to be that you would take off a few hundred yards outside of Jelly Fish Joe’s and then, if you got a good one, you’d have to kick out before the rocks sucked out dry.
Yesterday we were taking off in front of those rocks, sometimes behind them and getting barreled just passed them…or so you hoped! Any failure to make the barrel would leave you pinballing through the rocks, or even trying to weave your way through without tearing out your fins. Despite the eminent danger we took on the waves and were well rewarded.
This was the first time surfing Freight Trains in over a year. We did a short exploratory mission there some months ago, but it was pretty much crap. Yesterday was anything but crap. These were world class 200 yard long kegs….the kind we used to take for granted. There was some discussion in the lineup about whether is was actually better than the old freight trains that had grown the tendency to get fat and not barrel as much.
Alas we don’t have photos for you…the boat couldn’t get in close enough to get an angle for shooting. Water shots were hit or miss as Bruno was trying, but frequently got cleaned up by 12 foot wide swingers that caught us all off guard. Welcome back to the long paddle outs after cleanup sets.
The other discussion in the lineup was how amazing this little miracle was. A session like this in December is pretty much unheard of…to catch Freight Trains like this after being mostly dormant for over a year…was just short of a miracle. We could only guess it was parting gift from my Father who passed the day before…he was generous. Regardless, thanks for the blessings from above!