I usually pre-empt surf sessions with a little shit talking. Usually I offer barrel lessons or tell the guys that if they wanna learn how to get barreled I’m putting on a clinic, etc… Just a little jab to get the competitive juices flowing and set the bar a little high. This morning I said to Matt Khouri, “I can see the future Matt and in it you are going over the falls…but let’s go surf and you can watch me get barreled.” With that I sunscreened up, waxed up and took off without waiting for anyone. The first four waves I went for I fell on. The first was a test of my cat like reflexes; I became part of the lip and threw the board, sucked my legs under me in hopes of hitting the reef feet first…it worked, but I got worked. The two were similar air-drops to lip on the head scenarios. You’ll see in the first photo frame my fourth wave. This is when you ask, “what was going through his head before the lip hit it?”
Witness my redemption though in the final 5 frames. I ramp into a mushy one breaking on the slab, but not completely, it starts to bowl out in front of me. I honestly couldn’t put thought into it, just instincts and threw a snap stall that send the spray from the turn funneling out of the tube. It would have been clean except my own spray was clouding the view. Luckily I was able to see my way through it and miss the pinching section at the end. There were about 10 frames total, not a long barrel, but it was enough to feel redeemed after the first four humiliations.
When Matt finally got to the lineup I told him, “Matt, you know those visions of the future I was telling you about? Well apparently it wasn’t you going over the falls, it was me.”